Saraste top from Named Patterns, Butterick 6201, and a Joann pattern sale haul

Fresh off the sewing machine! This is the Saraste top from the Named Patterns book, a princess-seamed top with a flared hem and a number of sleeve options. (There’s also a dress version.) I really liked all the versions I saw floating around the internet, and this is one of my favorite garments in the book. Since the Ruska dress was kind of a bust, I was especially glad that this top came out so well.

I made it in a Nani Iro double-gauze from Miss Minitaka, a much fancier fabric than I normally can afford, but I believe this was half-off during a Black Friday sale. I have to admit that when I opened the package, I was kind of like, “Huh.” Not disappointed, exactly, but I wasn’t really seeing what was so special about the vaunted Nani Iro fabric. It’s really grown on me, though. I think it has a depth and quirkiness that make it interesting. Every one of the little red and yellow splooshes is different, which make it feel extra handmade. It’s also super soft; it feels like flannel, but lighter weight, of course.

This was my first time sewing with double-gauze, and while for the most part it was totally fine, it did present a few challenges. In particular, it frays a lot, so it’s important to control seams carefully. This was an extra challenge for me because the patterns in the Named book use a three-eighths inch seam allowance. After sewing some seams, I realized I wasn’t sure how I’d finish them. I really like flat-felled seams, especially on shirts, but three-eighths of an inch doesn’t give you much room to work with. Maybe I should have done French seams? Or bound them? Anyway, I forged ahead with flat-felling, even though I completely failed to catch both layers at certain points. It’s not ideal, but I applied some Fray-Check, so I hopefully won’t have fuzzy guts to deal with. If I were to do this again with flat-felled seams, I’d probably increase the seam allowance to five-eighths. I made covered buttons for this top, after dithering a bit about maybe using red ones.

I took some extra time with the fitting, mostly just lowering the bust curve, even though this is a pretty simple pattern. I’m glad I did — I need some more blouses in my wardrobe, and I’m super excited to make this in different fabrics and variations. In particular, I need a plain white button-down, and this pattern is perfect for that. You can make it with long sleeves and (of course) leave off the ruffles. And there’s a version with some interesting shoulder vents, although I’m sort of ambivalent about those. I have some quilting cottons that I love but am not sure what to do with, and I think they’ll work for this.

The pattern from the Named book that everyone seems to love is the Solina dress, but I have to confess that I’m not really getting everyone’s enthusiasm for it. It’s so fussy! All those ribbons and bows! Not for me, nor is the pinafore — pinafores are another thing I don’t really understand. I do, however, like the Kaste dress, especially the butterfly sleeves, and I could see myself making the Sade blouse. (Why all the vents, though? Apparently other people like vents more than I do!) I might also give the Ruska dress another shot, maybe in a smaller size. Overall, I’m glad I bought the book, and I think it’s exceptionally well written and illustrated.

Dora would like a version, of course, so I picked up a princess-seamed dress pattern at the Joann Simplicity sale. No Nani Iro for her, though; I’ve got nothing left but scraps.

Speaking of Dora’s mommy-and-me obsession, I made her a Dora-sized version of my pink Etta dress, using Butterick 6201. Actually, the silhouette is nothing like the Etta, obviously, but a pencil skirt on a six-year-old would just be creepy, and I liked the clean lines of this pattern. It also has a lined bodice, which is a nice touch. The pattern came together really easily, with the exception of the bottom of the sleeve caps, which don’t slide in under the shell easily if you serge the rest of the armscye, as I did. Whoops. I’m glad to have this pattern in my arsenal; it’s a pretty, simple dress that will work in a lot of different fabrics.

I actually picked up quite a number of patterns at the Joann $1.99 pattern sale. (I missed the McCall days and I’m not sure I should attempt the $5.99 Vogue sale.) They are:

  • Simplicity S8836, a sheath dress with an interesting yoke, part of my continuing quest to dress like Selina Meyer.
  • Butterick 6351, a summer dress/pantsuit with an interesting open back. I’m wondering if it might be a good match for some beautiful ombre silk chiffon I’ve been stashing away.
  • Butterick 5030, your basic wrap dress, since I wasn’t thrilled with the last one I made.
  • Simplicity 8832, a maxi dress with a tie belt and surplice bodice, another possibility for the aforementioned silk chiffon.
  • Simplicity 8840, a slightly weird top with pleats down the front, which could be cool or could just be odd, but anyway it was $1.99.
  • Simplicity 1456, a pretty standard-issue kid’s dress, which I bought because I thought it had princess seams, although now that I look at it more closely, I think those are pleats. Hmm.
  • Butterick 6621, a knit dress with some interesting tie and knot variations in the front. The knot version is similar to McCall’s 7429, which has been on my to-make list for awhile.
  • Butterick 6285, a Patterns by Gertie wrap top that I think would fill a gap in my wardrobe. It also comes with a flared skirt, so I guess I could make that.
  • Butterick 6654, a mommy-and me set of wrap dresses that Dora is very excited about. I bought some lightweight yellow flowered cotton for these, which looks alarmingly like bedsheets, but oh well.

All this for $18, which isn’t too bad and should keep me busy for quite some time. The next thing I’d like to make is a denim skirt, which I’ve been wishing I had lately. I purchased the Cashmerette Ellis pattern for this. I considered the TATB Ness Skirt, but I liked that the Cashmerette version came with options for both apple and pear shapes. I also purchased some dark, heavier-weight stretch denim on eBay, so I’m all ready to go with that skirt. But Dora will be extremely pissed if I move on without making her a Dora version of the Saraste top and the mommy-and-me wrap dresses, so I guess those are next on my list!

And with that, I’m turning to a book proposal that I have been very successfully neglecting all morning!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *