{"id":1,"date":"2018-06-21T04:35:06","date_gmt":"2018-06-21T04:35:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/miriamposner.com\/classes\/sewing\/?p=1"},"modified":"2018-11-11T05:47:08","modified_gmt":"2018-11-11T05:47:08","slug":"kielo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/miriamposner.com\/classes\/sewing\/2018\/06\/21\/kielo\/","title":{"rendered":"Kielo Wrap Dress"},"content":{"rendered":"

I knew I had to make this dress<\/a>, from Named Patterns, when I saw photos of it on other people. I love its drape and drama. I’ve never been a fan of maxi dresses (on me), so I knew I’d want to go shorter, but the dress’s beauty, combined with its (purported) ease of construction made this a must-sew.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
Ties in the front<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

The versions I liked best were all made from solid colors, which seem to emphasize the dress’s dramatic curves. The version of the pattern I used (I understand it’s been updated recently) recommended a knit with 20-60% stretch. I hunted around on Fabric.com and found a coral knit I liked, but at the last minute I needed (“needed”) to go to Joann anyway, so I ended up picking up a coral knit they had in stock. Because immediate gratification. (Did you know that it’s apparently “Joann,” not “Joann’s”? That sounds really wrong.)<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a><\/p>\n

I don’t know what kind of knit it is, exactly \u2014 I need to learn more about fabric composition \u2014 but it ended up being quite spongy and a challenge to work with. The basic construction of the dress is, as everyone says, pretty easy: just 3 pieces to sew, including the sash. (Here<\/a> is an extremely helpful diagram, via PatternReview, about how to shorten the Kielo without losing its shape. Took me forever to find this!) But finishing the neckline and armscyes had me stumped.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
I think this looks pretty meh tied in back, at least on me.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The instructions suggest either just folding down and topstitching, or attaching binding. I figured I should apply binding, just to be professional, I guess. But I’m not very good at that yet, especially when it comes to knits, so I read a million tutorials and practiced on a bunch of scraps. There are, as I learned, many methods of attaching binding. The one that seemed to look best in my trials was a strip of binding folded in half, serged on to the right side of the garment, then flipped over and topstitched with a double-needle.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Obligatory flying-squirrel shot!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This worked, for the most part, but in the process I’m pretty sure I stretched the neckline and the armscyes. I need to remember to cut binding smaller than the openings and then stretch it as I sew. I also had terrible problems with my thread twisting into knots and breaking, so I had to do a lot of re-threading. I’m not sure if there’s a way to prevent that — better thread? Sharper needles? Stabilizer?<\/p>\n

I hadn’t really used stabilizer in the past, but about halfway through Amazon delivered the package of HeatnBond Soft Stretch that I’d ordered, so I used that on one of the armscyes, the neckline, and the hem. To be honest, I don’t think it really made a difference. I may need something a little heavier.<\/p>\n

I also really need to figure out the differential feed on my serger. No matter how many times I adjust it, I get wavy seams on knits. I’m not sure what’s going on.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Success! More or less!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With all these problems, I sort of expected the final product to be a mess, but I’m actually pretty happy with the way it looks. It’s super comfortable, has a lot of drama, and drapes the way I’d hoped. Unfortunately, this knit seems to highlight lumps and bumps, but I’ve decided I don’t care and intend to wear the dress anyway.<\/p>\n

There are a lot of great Kielo dresses out there, but I think the ones I like best are made out of fabric with a little more structure, so I may try something like a linen blend on my next attempt.<\/p>\n

Next, I’d really like to make Dora a dress for her graduation on Friday, out of a ridiculous shiny silver stretch fabric that was a half-off remnant at Joann. But I don’t know if that’s going to happen, since my latest sewing jag has me seriously sleep-deprived and I’m way behind on my grading (as usual).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I knew I had to make this dress, from Named Patterns, when I saw photos of it on other people. I love its drape and drama. I’ve never been a … <\/p>\n

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